What I needed were some fixed studs that protruded rearward so I just needed to remove and replace a couple nuts to mount the PTO bracket. I could drill and tap the end of the shaft for bolt that would run parallel to the shaft or use set screws at a right angle to the shaft.
However before I could put them on I had to deal with something I had forgotten to do. Although aluminum is not the ideal material for a pulley, I chose it because I have a good assortment of aluminum rounds. There's now plenty of room for the PTO shaft and collar that will set the depth of the shaft in the hydro fan.
The attachment studs that hold the bottom tiller mount to the bracket were too short.
It rubbed against the depth adjuster cam and made setting the depth tough. We'll see how it holds up over time. I finished the job with some crocus cloth to round over the corners of each groove so that the belt would not get cut. These were drilled three inches apart.
Probably a bit of over-kill, but I'm betting that the pulley doesn't come loose from the shaft.
It is usually the first part used when testing an IGES translator, because the standard has a picture of what it should look like. The ground was nicely shredded with the bits of sod and roots sitting on top of the soil. The PTO is about finished.
It was a bit of a fight to get the new belts over the pulley but they work great. I have to get some new belts ordered, but hopefully the old ones will last long enough to try the tiller out tomorrow. I raised the tiller and locked the cam into the transport position and rode out to the new garden area.
October 18, The belts arrived yesterday. I was expecting this but at least I was able to test out the tiller and it passed with flying colors. Text strings are represented in " Hollerith " format, the number of characters in the string, followed by the letter "H", followed by the text string, e.
Precast piles are usually more expensive and as mentioned they generate noise and vibrations. This would result in a lot of wasted aluminum, so I decided to cut a ring out of the chunk of round.
Just the whirring of the chains and tines. With the modified link rod in place, I could now use the depth adjusting cam. Depending on the PTO style, Deere lists two: Due to not having a shoulder on the shaft to clamp to, I decided on using set screws. Back in the shop and the tiller has broken some ground - as well as shredded some belts. With the clearance issues fixed, I moved on to the next issue.
I set the depth vue slot props about 4 inches and tilled the area I had tilled the other day. To close the data gap between parts design and manufacturing, one of the ICAM goals was to develop CAD software that would automatically generate numerical control programs for the very complex Computer Numerically Controlled CNC machine tools used throughout the Aerospace industry.
These match the pulley on the tiller. Everything fits as it should. The current version of IGES does not support Unicode or bit character encoding, so Arabic and other scripts like Thai cannot be represented.
With the round of aluminum now chucked by the snout, I started reducing the diameter. We'll see how it goes. The stud bushings are. The stud bracket is installed.
This solution is specially effective in seismic areas, were concrete piles can be broken by earthquake. In the tiller manual, I had read that when using both extensions one should not try to till full depth in one pass.
I used a very sharp parting tool and with the lathe off, I used the carriage crank to advance the tool into the hole.
As you'd deduce from the number, they were 35". I drilled a couple holes to line up with the bolts that hold the rear hydraulic port bracket. This would allow me to move the pulley a bit closer toward the PTO bearing to set the belt alignment.
I am hoping that my PTO will still be functional in 20 years. After trying different amperage settings on the arc welder on some similarly sized scrap pieces, I found that I couldn't come to a happy medium in regard to amperage settings. The tiller is really quiet. I did a test fit of the bracket so I could mark where to cut the top of the bracket.
It wasn't more than about 0. Looks like I'll need some new belts as these don't seem to be a matched pair. Business side of the stud bracket. I had made the shaft so it could slip in and out, but the bolts that hold the brackets in place could only be accessed if the fender pan and gas tank were removed.
I'm all for supporting my local Deere dealer, but not this time. Now the width was 2. With the hole now aligned, I there aint no black in the union jack paul gilroy a fly cutter to open the hole up to 1.
The finished PTO bracket along with my fabrication notes. Trying out the hydro fan with extension welded on.
I fired the back up and engaged the tiller. I pulled on the hydraulic lever to raise the tiller off the blocks I had it positioned on and engaged the idler. So far, so good. I decided that I would cut a notch out of the straight link arm so that would clear the transmission mount.
Tomorrow I'll give the tiller a road test and see how it performs. Close enough for this job. I have a few bolts and set screws that need to be purchased before I try using the PTO. It has been used for weapons systems from Trident missile guidance systems to entire aircraft carriers.
I readjusted the cam and set the depth for about 2 inches. To cut the groves, I measured and marked the lines I would cut to. In hind-sight, a bearing with a slightly shorter inner race would have not required the relief to be cut in the pulley.
As I lowered the tiller into the soil, it pushed the tractor forward a couple inches while chewing through the short grass, weeds and soil. I will have to give this a little more thought.